topic: clothing

(work in progress: 17.10.26)

Topic / Level 4; clothing [1]

[1] vestis, -is [3/f]: [i] a garment, i.e. a single article / item of clothing; [ii] clothes, clothing = (pl.) vestēs

[i] itaque inter sē commūtant vestem et nōmina (Plautus)

Therefore, they exchange clothes and names with each other.

[ii] quandō ego tibi ancillās, penum, lānam, aurum, vestem, purpuram, bene praebeō nec quicquam egēs (Plautus)  

Since I well provide you with maids and pantry goods, wool, gold, clothes, and purple, and you do not lack anything

  • aurum, -ī [2/n]: gold
  • aureus, -a, -um: golden
  • lāna, -ae [1/f]: wool
  • purpura, -ae [1/f]: purple [see the next post]

[2] vestīmentum, -ī [2/n]: [i] (sg.) article of clothing; [ii] (pl.) vestīmenta, -ōrum: clothes, clothing

Note: the same singular / plural distinction is preserved in French: vêtement (an article of clothing); vêtements (clothes)

[i] From Plautus:

MENAECHMVS

Agedum odōrāre hanc quam ego habeō pallam. quid olet? …

Come now, smell this cloak I’ve got. What’s it smell like? …

PENICVLVS

Summum olfactāre oportet vestīmentum muliebre, nam ex istōc locō spurcātur nāsum odōre …

One should sniff the top edge of a woman’s garment, because from lower down, the nose gets fouled by the smell. 

  • palla, -ae [1/f]: the translation as “cloak” does not convey the specific function; it was a type of cloak or loose garment worn by women over the gown (stola, -ae [1/f]) and held together by brooches (fībula, -ae [1/f])

[ii] In Dē Agri Cultura, Cato the Elder refers to the articles of clothing to be issued to farm hands (familiae), and gives us an early example of recycling:

Vestīmenta familiae:

Clothing (allowance) for the hands:

tunicam p. IIIS*,

a tunic of 3½ feet / 3½ feet (long)

[*p: abbreviation for the measurement pedēs (feet); S: abbreviation for sēmis (half) = tunicam pedum trium et semis]

sāga alternīs annīs.

and blankets every other year.

quotiēns cuique tunicam aut sagum dabis, prius veterem accipitō, unde centōnēs fīant.

When you issue the tunic or the blanket to anyone, first take back the old one from which patchwork may be made.

sculpōneās bonās alternīs annīs dare oportet.

A good pair of wooden shoes should be issued every other year.

  • centō, -ōnis [3/m]: patchwork; an article of clothing made of several pieces sewn together
  • sāgum, -ī [2/n]: [i]  military cloak; [ii] (here) a coarse woollen blanket, i.e. a blanket for wrapping around the body
  • sculpōneae, -ārum [1/f/pl]: inferior kind of wooden shoe with a thick sole; clog
  • tunica, -ae [1/f]: one of the most common items of everyday Roman clothing and worn by men and women of different classes either as an undergarment or as the main article of clothing



Topic / Level 4;  clothing [2] The colour purple

[i]

quandō ego tibi ancillās, penum, lānam, aurum, vestem, purpuram, bene praebeō nec quicquam egēs (Plautus)  

Since I well provide you with maids and pantry goods, wool, gold, clothes, and purple, and you do not lack anything.

  • purpura, -ae [1/f]: purple; here, the character is referring to purple-coloured garments
  • purpureus, -a, um: purple

Tyrian purple dye was produced from the secretion of Mediterranean sea snails, especially species of murex, vast numbers of which were needed to produce even a small quantity, thus making purple garments symbols of wealth, prestige and power:

https://adckl.blogspot.com/2024/06/180724-level-1-bright-white-politicians.html

[ii] However, while the character may be implying that the clothes are expensive, Pliny the Elder, referring to different types of tree, mentions the manufacture of the colour – or something similar to it – by a different process and certainly not for the wealthy:

Nōn nisi in aquōsīs prōveniunt salicēs, alnī, populī, siler, ligustra …, item vaccīnia Ītaliae in aucupiīs sata, Galliae vērō etiam purpurae tinguendae causā ad servitiōrum vestēs

Willows, alders, poplars, the siler and the privet, …, will only grow in places where there is water, and the same is the case with the whortleberry, grown in bird-snares in Italy, but in Gaul also to supply purple dye for slaves' clothes.

[iii] When Jesus is mocked:

et induunt eum purpuram et inpōnunt eī plectentēs spīneam corōnam (Vulgate)

And they clothe him in purple: and, twisting together a crown of thorns, they put it upon him.

One commentator (Wessel) has suggested that it was a scarlet military cloak: “a cast-off and faded rag, but with color enough left in it to suggest the royal purple.”


Topic / Level 4;  clothing [3]

[1] vestītus, -ūs [4/m]: clothing, clothes (used collectively)

[2] amictus, -ūs [4/m]:  a general term for outer clothing; “a garment that one throws about or on him” (Lewis & Short)

[i]

Itidem habet petasum ac vestītum (Plautus)

He has a travelling hat and clothes just like mine.

[ii]

Crēdō enim tē audīsse, cum apud Caesarem prō populō fieret, vēnisse eō muliebrī vestītū [ablative]  virum (Cicero)

For I think you have heard that, when the sacrifice was being performed at Caesar’s house on behalf of the people, a man came there in women’s clothing.

[iii]

Nihil est facilius, quam amictum imitārī alicuius aut statum aut mōtum (Cicero)

Nothing is easier than imitating someone’s dress, posture, or movement.

[iv]

Habēbat amictuī [dative] pallium candidum, quod superne circumiēcerat (Apuleius)

He had a white cloak for a covering, which he had thrown around himself from above [ = over the upper part of his body]

  • petasus, -ī [2/m] < Anc. Gk: πέτασος [pétasos], a flat felt hat, with a broad and round brim; originally worn by the Ancient Greeks and Etruscans, the Romans wore a similar hat in the country, and when travelling; “in the city it was generally used only in the theatre, as a protection from the sun” (Thurston Peck); the images are of both Greek and Roman origin 
  • pallium, -ī [2/n]: cloak, particularly Greek style;  “At all periods of Greek life the characteristic outdoor garment, both of men and women, was a mantle or shawl, consisting of a rectangular piece of cloth.” (Smith et al: A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities)

The nouns vestītus and amictus are derived from the verbs:

  • vestiō, -īre, -īvī / -iī, vestītus [4]: clothe
  • amiciō, -īre, amicuī / amixī, amictus [4]: dress; clothe; cover; throw round: “exclusively of upper garments” (Lewis and Short)

From the perfect passive participles of the verbs, we have:

  • vestītus, -a, -um: (having been) dressed; clothed
  • amictus, -a, um: (having been) dressed; covered

[v]

vīlicus is autem cum corōnā, candidē [adverb] vestītus, lautus exōrnātusque ambulat (Plautus)

But the farm overseer walks about wearing a crown, dressed in dazzling white, smartly and elegantly adorned.

[vi]

Sedēbat in rōstrīs conlēga tuus (1) amictus togā purpureā [ablative], (2) in sellā aureā, (3) corōnātus (Cicero)

Your colleague was sitting on the Rostra, draped in a purple toga, on a golden chair, and crowned.”

The subject of the sentence (conlēga) refers to Caesar. Note the use of the tricolon associating Caesar with three honours: (1) the right to dress in purple, (2) the use of a golden chair, and (3) the wearing of a type of crown.

[3] habitus, -ūs [4/m]: while the noun may refer to clothing, it has a wider range of meanings, such as ‘appearance’ e.g. the person’s demeanour, posture, emotional state or character

[i]

Vērum hoc ūnum tamen cōgitātō : modus omnibus rēbus, soror, optimus est habitū (Plautus)

The translation does not make the meaning of habitus explicit:

But do consider this one fact: moderation in all things is the best policy [ = in terms of appearance], my dear.

[ii] Note the distinction between habitus and vestītus in the following quotation from Cicero:

Erant aēnea duo praetereā signa, nōn maximā vērum eximiā venustāte, virginālī habitū atque vestītū

There were two bronze statues, not very large but of exceptional beauty, in the appearance and dress of a maiden

[4] amiculum, -ī [2/n]: outer garment, often rendered as ‘cloak’

[i]

Amiculum hoc sustolle saltem  (Plautus)

At least take up this cloak.

[ii]

Saepe, cum aliquem offēnsum fortūnā vidēret minus bene vestītum, suum amīculum dedit (Nepos)

Often, when he saw somebody ill-treated by fortune and less well dressed [some translations render this as ‘poorly clad’], he gave him his cloak.

[iii]

et, cum tibi virō liceat purpurā in vestem strāgulam ūtī, mātrem familiae tuam purpureum amiculum habēre nōn sinēs, et equus tuus speciōsius īnstrātus erit quam uxor vestīta? (Livy)

And, although you as a husband may use purple for a coverlet will you not allow your wife to have a purple cloak, and your horse will be more splendidly covered than your wife (is) dressed?

  • īnstrātus, -a, -um: covered < īnsternō, -ere, īnstrāvī, īnstrātus [3]: cover (over)
  • vestis strāgula

At first sight, the use of vestis may suggest that clothing is being referred to, and there are examples of mistranslations. However, the adjective strāgulus, -a, -um describes anything used for spreading over or covering something. In the passage Livy is referring to the use of the colour purple for bed covers, and not clothing. The same meaning is confirmed in Cicero and, again, Livy, both of whom list furnishings:

[iv]

quid praetereā caelātī argentī, quid strāgulae vestis, quid pictārum tabulārum, quid signōrum, quid marmoris apud illum putātis esse? (Cicero)

What quantities besides of embossed plate, of quilts; of paintings, of statues, and of marble, do you think he has in his house? (Cicero)

[v]

iī prīmum lēctōs aerātōs, vestem strāgulam pretiōsam, plagulās … et alia textilia … Rōmam advēxērunt (Livy)

These men brought into Rome for the first time, bronze couches, costly coverlets, tapestry … and other fabrics

  • textile, -is [3/n]: fabric; textile
  • plagula, -ae [1/f]: dependent upon context, the noun – which is rare – has different meanings: bed cover, bed curtain, tapestry




Topic / Level 4;  clothing [4] the Digest of Justinian (1)

The Digest of Justinian is a 6th-century AD compilation of classical Roman legal writings commissioned by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I.  The extract – which we will look at over three posts - deals with inheritance law regarding personal property, ornaments, and clothing—determining precisely what items belong to specific categories when named in a Roman will.

[i]

Vestīmenta omnia aut virīlia sunt aut puerīlia aut muliebria aut commūnia aut familiārica.

All garments are either for men, for boys (children), for women, common to all, or for the household servants.

  • vestīmenta virīlia: men’s clothing
  • vestīmenta puerīlia: boys’ / children’s clothing; in the context of the extract, it is boys’ clothing being referred to
  • vestīmenta muliebria: women’s clothing
  • vestīmenta familiārica: clothing for slaves / household servants

[ii]

virīlia sunt, quae ipsīus patris familiae causā parāta sunt,  …

Men’s (clothing) is that provided for the benefit of the head of the household, …

… velutī togae tunicae palliola vestīmenta strāgula amfitapa* et sāga reliquaque similia.

… such as togas, tunics, little cloaks (hoods), bedspreads, rugs, cloaks and other similar items.

  • palliolum, -ī [2/n]: little cloak; hood

*amfitapa is a rendering of the Greek word ἀμφιτάπης [amphitapes], a thick rug or carpet with pile on both sides

[iii]

puerīlia sunt, quae ad nūllum alium ūsum pertinent nisi puerīlem …

Boys’ (clothes) are those which are suitable for no other use than that of boys [a more fluent rendering:  boys’ clothes are those used only for this purpose] …

… velutī togae praetextae āliculae chlamydēs pallia quae fīliīs nostrīs comparāmus.

… such as toga praetextae, short cloaks, (Greek style) cloaks and mantles that we provide for our sons.

  • ālicula, -ae [1/f]: (rare) “a short cloak coming down to the elbows, worn by boys, and spoken of as worn by boys and huntsmen” (Thurston Peck)
  • chlamys, -idis [3/f] < Anc. Gk. χλαμύς [khlamús]: a short poncho-like cloak caught up on the shoulder, worn by hunters, soldiers, and horsemen in Ancient Greece
  • praetextus, -a, -um: fringed; edged; bordered < praetexō, -ere, praetexuī, praetextus: (in weaving) fringe; edge; border
toga, -ae [1/f] praetexta: a toga with a broad purple border, worn by freeborn boys; the boys wore this type of toga until about the age of 15. However, see the next post for further information on this and other types of toga.

Before a freeborn Roman boy reached adulthood, he wore an amulet around his neck: bulla, -ae [1/f]; it indicated his freeborn status and was believed to protect him from evil influences. Roman girls wore a similar crescent-shaped amulet known as a lūnula, -ae [1/f] (‘little moon’).





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